Paper clay is made by combining paper pulp with clay slip, then drying it back down to a workable consistency. The process takes a day or two but is straightforward once you understand the ratio and the drying step. This guide covers how to make paper clay from scratch, the fiber ratio to aim for, and how to store and condition it for studio use.
What the Paper Fibers Do
Paper fibers — cellulose — distribute through the clay body and act as a three-dimensional reinforcement network. They hold the clay together across cracks and joins that would fail in standard clay. When fired, the fibers burn out completely, leaving tiny channels through the clay body that make the finished piece slightly lighter than an equivalent piece without paper. The fired strength is the same as or slightly better than standard clay at the same temperature.
Materials
- Clay — any body works; porcelain, stoneware, earthenware. Use the same clay you build with so firing shrinkage matches.
- Paper — newspaper is standard. Toilet paper, tissue paper, and recycled office paper also work. Avoid glossy paper — the coating doesn’t break down into fiber properly.
- Water
- Two buckets
- Drill with a helix or mud mixer attachment
- Kitchen sieve or fine mesh strainer
- Plaster drying board or drywall sheet
- A small amount of dish soap — prevents mold growth in the wet mix
Fiber Ratio
The standard starting ratio is 1 part paper pulp to 4–5 parts clay by volume — roughly 20% paper by volume in the finished mix. More fiber increases the bonding and repair properties but makes the clay harder to work and more prone to surface texture from the fibers. Less fiber is easier to work but reduces the benefit. Start at 20% and adjust based on what you’re using it for — sculptural work that needs maximum join strength can go up to 30%; functional ware that needs a smoother surface stays at 15–20%.
Step-by-Step
1. Make the Paper Pulp
Tear newspaper into small pieces and submerge in a bucket of water. Let it soak for at least several hours — overnight is better. The paper needs to fully absorb the water and start breaking down before you blend it. Once soaked, use a drill with a helix mixer to blend the paper into a smooth pulp. Mix briefly — you want separated, fluffy fibers, not a paste. Over-mixing cuts the fibers too short and reduces their reinforcing effect.
Check the pulp by putting a small amount in a clear container — you should see individual fluffy fibers distributed through the water, not clumps or colored streaks. If there are still visible pieces of paper, blend a little more.
2. Strain the Pulp
Pour the pulp through a kitchen sieve or fine mesh strainer to remove excess water. Don’t press hard — leave the pulp damp. Save the strained water; it can be used when mixing the clay slip.
3. Make the Clay Slip
Cut your clay into thin slabs or break into chunks and add to a bucket with enough water to make a thick, smooth slip. Use a drill mixer to blend until lump-free. The slip should be the consistency of thick yogurt — pourable but with body. If it’s too thick, add small amounts of the saved paper water.
4. Combine Pulp and Slip
Add the strained paper pulp to the clay slip at your target ratio — roughly 1 part pulp to 4 parts slip by volume as a starting point. Mix thoroughly with the drill until the pulp is evenly distributed through the slip with no clumping. Add a small squirt of dish soap and mix in — this inhibits bacterial and mold growth in the wet mix.
5. Dry Down to Working Consistency
Pour the paper clay slip onto a plaster drying board or drywall sheet in a layer about 2–3cm thick. The plaster absorbs moisture from the bottom; the top air-dries. Check every few hours. Once the surface loses its shine and the edges start to firm, fold the mass over itself and allow it to continue drying. When the clay reaches a soft, plastic consistency — similar to fresh clay from a bag — it’s ready to wedge and use.
- Tip: Don’t rush the drying step on a heat source. Even drying through the full depth of the clay produces a consistent consistency throughout. A fast surface dry leaves the interior still slip-like and the clay tears when worked.
6. Wedge Before Use
Wedge the dried-down paper clay thoroughly before building. This distributes the fibers evenly, removes air pockets, and brings the consistency to a uniform plastic state. Paper clay wedges slightly differently from standard clay — the fibers create a slightly fibrous texture under your hands. This is normal.
Storage
Store paper clay wrapped tightly in plastic, sealed in a bag or container. It dries out faster than standard clay because the paper fibers absorb and release moisture more readily. Label it clearly — paper clay looks identical to regular clay until you’re mid-project. At the right moisture level it keeps for weeks; if it begins to dry, mist with water, wrap, and leave overnight to rehydrate.
- Tip: Paper clay slip — the liquid stage before drying down — keeps well in a sealed bucket for weeks. Many potters keep a bucket of paper clay slip specifically for repairs and joins, dried-down stock separately for building. See: Paper Clay Slip for Repairs and Joins.
Commercial vs Homemade
Commercial paper clay is available from most ceramic suppliers pre-mixed to consistent fiber ratios. It’s convenient and reliable but costs more than making your own. Homemade paper clay using your own clay body has the advantage of matching your existing clay exactly — same firing temperature, same shrinkage rate, same color. For repairs and joins, this match is important. For projects where you want to purchase paper clay rather than make it, ensure the commercial body fires at the same temperature as your other clay.
Related
See also: What Is Paper Clay?, Paper Clay Slip for Repairs and Joins, and Firing Paper Clay.
