Reclaiming clay is one of the most important studio habits you can develop. Every scrap, failed piece, and trimming that hasn’t been fired can be returned to a fully workable state. Done consistently, reclaiming means you almost never throw clay away — which matters both for cost and for reducing studio waste. This guide covers the full process from wet scraps and bone dry pieces through to wedged, ready-to-use clay.
What Can Be Reclaimed
Any unfired clay can be reclaimed — greenware at any stage from freshly thrown to bone dry, throwing slop from the wheel, trimming scraps, failed handbuilt pieces, and dried-out clay that’s gone too stiff to work. The only clay that cannot be reclaimed is clay that has already been bisque or glaze fired — the firing process is irreversible and permanently changes the clay’s structure.
- Keep clay bodies separate: Don’t mix different clay bodies in the same reclaim bucket. Different bodies have different firing temperatures and shrinkage rates — mixing them creates a body with unpredictable properties. Label your reclaim buckets clearly.
The Slop Bucket Method (Best for Wet Scraps)
The most common studio reclaim method. Keep a dedicated bucket for each clay body you use. Add all wet scraps, throwing slop, and soft clay directly to the bucket. Add water to keep everything submerged — the clay will break down over time into a thick slip. When the bucket is full, dry it down on a plaster bat or drywall sheet.
Step-by-Step
- Collect scraps: Add wet clay scraps, trimming offcuts, and throwing slop directly to the bucket. Keep it covered between sessions.
- Break down dry pieces: Bone dry clay can be added too — crush into chunks first and submerge in the water. Bone dry clay breaks down into slip faster than leather-hard pieces.
- Mix periodically: Stir the bucket every few sessions with a stick or drill mixer to break up chunks and keep the consistency even.
- Pour onto drying surface: When the bucket is full and the consistency is smooth slip, pour it onto a plaster bat or drywall sheet in a layer 3–5cm thick. The plaster or drywall absorbs moisture from below while the top surface air-dries.
- Monitor drying: Check every hour or two. When the edges start to pull away from the bat and the surface loses its shine, fold the clay over itself to expose the wetter interior. Continue until the clay reaches a soft, plastic consistency throughout.
- Wedge and use: Once at a consistent plastic state, wedge thoroughly before use. See: Ram’s Head Wedging.
- Tip: Don’t pour reclaim slip more than 5cm deep on the drying bat. Thicker layers take much longer to dry evenly and the bottom stays wet while the top goes too stiff.
Reclaiming Leather-Hard and Bone Dry Pieces
Leather-hard pieces can go straight into the slop bucket — they’ll break down over a few days submerged in water. Bone dry pieces break down faster: crush or break them into smaller pieces, then add to the bucket with water. Cover and leave overnight — bone dry clay slakes very quickly once wet.
- Don’t add glazed bisque or fired pieces: Even small fragments of bisqueware contaminate the reclaim. If a fired piece is in the bin, pick it out before it goes into the reclaim bucket.
Plaster Contamination
Plaster is the enemy of reclaim clay. Even small fragments of plaster — from a deteriorating bat, from mold-making work done near the reclaim bucket, from plaster dust settling on wet clay — will cause pieces to explode in the kiln. The plaster absorbs moisture and expands during firing, blowing out a chunk of the surrounding clay wall.
- Keep reclaim buckets away from plaster work areas
- Never use plaster bats that are flaking, pitting, or crumbling for drying reclaim — fragments will work into the clay
- Drywall / sheetrock is a safer alternative to plaster for drying reclaim if contamination is a concern
Drying Boards and Surfaces
- Plaster bat: Absorbs moisture fastest. Best for production studios. Risk of contamination if the bat is deteriorating.
- Drywall / sheetrock: Slower absorption than plaster but zero contamination risk. Cheap and widely available. Cut to size.
- Canvas on a wooden board: Very slow drying — the wood absorbs some moisture but not as efficiently as plaster or drywall. Fine for small amounts.
How Long Does It Take?
Drying time varies considerably by studio humidity, layer thickness, and drying surface. In a dry studio on a plaster bat, a 4cm layer of slip can reach workable consistency in 4–8 hours. In humid conditions on drywall it may take 24–48 hours. Check regularly rather than leaving it — clay that dries past the plastic stage on the bat is harder to wedge evenly.
Wedging Reclaimed Clay
Always wedge reclaimed clay thoroughly before use. Reclaim often has uneven consistency — wetter in the center, stiffer at the edges — and may contain small air pockets from the drying process. Wedging homogenizes the consistency and removes air. If the reclaim feels significantly stiffer or softer in places, knead and fold it until it’s even throughout before wedging properly. See: Ram’s Head Wedging and Spiral Wedging.
Related
See also: The Stages of Clay, How to Store Clay Properly, and Ram’s Head Wedging.
